The Question Of Whether Or Not We Are Alone...Has Been Answered. ID4

[Biglunk]

Sinon sans support je peux te faire des nouvelles pattes avec des chutes de connecteurs de résistances ou de condos.  ^-

[Bubble]

Merci les gars.
Je suis rassuré, je vois qu'il y'a quand même plusieurs solutions. ^-
Je garde ça sous le coude quand j'aurai récupéré l'affichage et les contrôles  :happyjump:

[Bubble]

Bon j'avance un peu.


je viens de revérifier les fusibles (qui étaient bons lors du premier test).
du coup sur les conseils d'Oliv et Fred, j'ai également vérifié les porte-fusibles.
bon y'en avait un qui foirait : normalement je devrai récupérer mon 20 v (vérif de main matin)


ça m'explique pas les soucis d'affichage  du DOT et des bobines (qui s'activent s'il manque une bille et que je n'arrive pas a activer lors d'une partie  )

[K2KL]

La tension est à son comble  (:: .

[Bubble]

La tension est à son comble  (:: .

pffff 


Bon j'ai récupéré mon 20 v, et aussi mes contrôles (à part le flip haut droit).
j'ai enfin pu faire une partie (à l'aveugle car pas d'affichage) et en sourdine (car pas de son), mais c'est quand même bon...  :happyjump: :happyjump: :happyjump:
prochaine étape : flip droit, slingshot et surtout affichage..

[papinball]

Yeah
Bonne nouvelle

[Bubble]

mouahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahhahahahahahahahahhahahahahahah 


L'est trop fort. Merci  :ic:

[papinball]

yes !!!   ^- :ic:

[K2KL]

mouahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahhahahahahahahahahhahahahahahah 


L'est trop fort. Merci  :ic:

Un peu enrobé tout au plus dirons nous.  =:))

[papinball]

ctkoi alors ??

[Bubble]

du jeu dans le connecteur du 5V...


suite des opérations : contact EOS batteur droit, changement switch défectueux, re-soudure avec diode slingshot gauche, quelques lampes à changer.


ce soir je regarde aussi ce qu'il faut comme eprom et comme ram pour le son.


si tout va bien j'aurai un flipper 100 % fonctionnel pour mon anniv  :happyjump: :happyjump: :happyjump:

mouahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahhahahahahahahahahhahahahahahah 


L'est trop fort. Merci  :ic:

Un peu enrobé tout au plus dirons nous.  =:))

[agent orange]

Well done guy  ^-

[demether]

'tain ça me motiverai presque pour reprendre la réparation de mon gottlieb eternellement en panne 

[Bubble]

'tain ça me motiverai presque pour reprendre la réparation de mon gottlieb eternellement en panne 

ben mon shadow à le mini plateau qui fonctionne pas depuis 3 ans et j'ai du mal à m'y pencher dessus...
mais là, c'est les vacances et j'ai un peu de temps disponible.


c'est surtout cool quand les problèmes se résolvent peu à peu  ^-


Bon je me note ici quelques pistes pour mon problème de son :


1°) Trouvé sur flipper France :
tu peus essayer de nettoyer les rom's du son ,passe un coup de bombe sur les rom's ,change aussi les petit rom's 74ls 374( entre le rom's du jeu et l'amplificateur de signal de la cpu )
moi j'ai fait ça et le son et maintenant ok.
pour le controle des rom's ===> demontage et coup de bombe sur les pins et controle des soudures pin/pin....verif aussi bstm 200


je vous colle la photo de la carte parce que je ne sais pas encore ou se trouve les petites roms 74ls374 (ni l'amplificateur de signal de la cpu) et que je ne sais pas non plus ce qu'est le bstm 200





2°) Trouvé sur un newsgroup (sachant que moi je n'ai pas de son distordu mais pas de son du tout) :


On 5 Nov, 02:17, Jamie <jamesfb...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:Hi,

I am working on a Sega Independence Day pinball with a sound problem.
The game has sound but it is distorted. I have replaced the bottom
cabinet speaker because it was damaged. The backbox speaker tests ok
with a multi meter but all that comes out of it is buzzing sounds. The
lower cabinet speaker plays the music and sound effects but it's
distorted. I have replaced both audio amps, changed all caps in the
sounds section, burnt new eproms(sound & game) and replaced the ram
chip at U4. I am not sure what is causing this problem...any ideas?

Thanks,

Jamie

(The rest of the game works 100%)
Make sure the 24MHz clock is running on the BSMT (pin 8, U9), if it'sjittery or slow thats your problem. Check the 6MHz I2S clock (pin 4,U34) feeding the DAC's(U25/U26). U30 forms a post LPF, these op ampscan die like all other circuits but specifically the will have aneffect on audio. U23 and U24 are the audio shift registers loadedwith each audio sample for the left and right channels, I had toreplace one of these on my LIS but I had no audio -


hope this helps.
Ping




3°) Trouvé sur Pinwiki.com (sega/stern Whitestar repair) :4.10 Sound problems
Basic operation (simplified) of the White Star CPU/Sound board audio part: The main CPU (U200) makes sound calls to the sound CPU (U6) which instructs the BSMT to play a certain sound. The BSMT fetches the required data (sound sample) from the ROM memory (U17-U21-U36-U37) and feeds the 16-bits wide parallel data to a conversion circuit which makes it serial data (shift register, U23-U24). The serial data is fed into a DAC (U26, Digital to Analogue Converter) that outputs to a pre-amplifier (U30, OPAMP). The output from the pre-amplifier is fed into the TDA2030A amplifiers at U101/U102 and sometimes U100 (some boards have 3 amplifiers, one for each speaker) and from there the audio signal goes to the speakers.
The sound section is quite reliable, the failure occuring most is a failed TDA2030A amplifier.
Sound missing from one of the speakers: Most likely a failed TDA2030A amplifier.
No sound at all: Check the voltages on the board. On the DC input connector CN2 there should be approx. +12V DC between pin 2 (ground) and pin 6 (+12V) and -12V between pin 2 (ground) and pin 3 (-12V), these voltages come from the Power Supply Board. On the board itself are two voltage regulators to convert the +12V and -12V to +5V and -5V for the pre-amplifiers, check these voltages by measuring between the ground (GND test point) and U30 pin 8 for +5V, U30 pin 4 for -5V.
Other causes of no sound at all are the U7 game ROM being corrupted or improperly seated. You can re-seat this ROM and it often solves the issue. If any of the voice ROMs (U17, U21, U36, U37) are corrupted or improperly seated, the sound will still work but will be corrupted or have intermittent issues such as scratchy sounds or improper sounds at specific times.
Finally, if you have no sound at all, you might also want to check that you have the correct sound board. Some operators may have swapped the 520-5300 with a 520-5136 board for the older series White Star games. The 5300 board will work in all White Star systems. The 5136 will work but will present no sound at all in all games newer than lord of the rings (2003).
Samples playing randomly This happens on CPU boards that have the BSMT2000 emulation chip rather than the original (which Stern could not source cheaply enough at that time). You need to update the emulation using the method in Stern service bulletin 157:http://www.sternpinball.com/ROM_bootFLASH.html
Sound is distorted If the sound is distorted, the most likely problem is the TDA1543 (U26) chip. This sounds as if the volume is very over modulated and are "clipped". Be sure to use the TDA1543 version and NOT the TDA1543A. The TDA1543A uses another protocol (Japanese). If the sound is distorted at master volume levels below 4, see the section below that explains a fix.
Loud hum/burnt speakers/12V DC coming out of the speaker connector If you have a machine with all speakers dead, check for voltage on the speaker wires. If the -12V wire from the driver board to the CPU board is disconnected, it can cause 12V DC to be sent down the speaker line, causing a loud hum and fairly quickly destroying any speakers connected!



4°) Trouvé sur Flipjuke :

BonjourTout est réparé !!Le son sur la carte cpu: c'était la sram. pfff... j'ai tout désoudé, et tout remplacé avant de me rendre compte que c'était la sram U4

5°) Trouvé ici : http://newsgroups.derkeiler.com/Archive/Rec/rec.games.pinball/2007-11/msg02444.html

On 5 Nov, 02:17, Jamie <jamesfb...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hi,

I am working on a Sega Independence Day pinball with a sound problem.
The game has sound but it is distorted. I have replaced the bottom
cabinet speaker because it was damaged. The backbox speaker tests ok
with a multi meter but all that comes out of it is buzzing sounds. The
lower cabinet speaker plays the music and sound effects but it's
distorted. I have replaced both audio amps, changed all caps in the
sounds section, burnt new eproms(sound  & game) and replaced the ram
chip at U4. I am not sure what is causing this problem...any ideas?

Thanks,

Jamie

(The rest of the game works 100%)
</blockquote>
Make sure the 24MHz clock is running on the BSMT (pin 8, U9), if it's
jittery or slow thats your problem.  Check the 6MHz I2S clock (pin 4,
U34) feeding the DAC's(U25/U26).  U30 forms a post LPF, these op amps
can die like all other circuits but specifically the will have an
effect on audio.  U23 and U24 are the audio shift registers loaded
with each audio sample for the left and right channels, I had to
replace one of these on my LIS but I had no audio - hope this helps.

Ping

6°) pinwiki : http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Basic_Sound_Troubleshooting

21 Basic Sound Troubleshooting Regardless of the manufacturer, there are some simple steps to follow if no sound is present.  Below are the steps from simplest to more complicated.

   
• Make sure the speaker is properly connected.  If female crimp spade connectors are used on the wiring connecting to the speaker terminals, it is not uncommon for the connectors to come loose or even break.  If the leads to the speakers are soldered onto the speaker terminals, make certain the wires are soldered well by gently tugging on the wires.
  
• Make sure the speaker is good.  If no sound is coming out of the speaker, not even a hum when the volume pot is turned up, check to see if the speaker is not blown.  For what it is worth, even a speaker with a ripped cone can put out some sound in most cases.  The sound may be distorted, but it should be present.  There are two ways to test a speaker.  The safest way is to hook an ohmmeter up to the two speaker leads, and see if the resistance equals the impedance of the speaker. Most, if not all speakers in pinball machines are either 4 ohm or 8 ohm. The other method for testing a speaker is to hook a 9v battery up to the speaker leads.  Prior to hooking up a battery, it is important to disconnect the speaker outputs on the sound board.  This will isolate the speaker from the sound board completely. Once the battery is hooked up, the speaker cone should either pull in or flex out, depending on how the battery's polarity was connected to the speaker.  Do not allow the battery to be connected to the speaker for very long.
  
• Make sure the volume potentiometer (pot) is properly connected, if one is used (newer machines like WMS WPC, Stern / Sega White Star, and stern SAM systems use digital potentiometers).  If turning the volume pot up does not result in any sound, turn the pot the opposite direction.  If no mechanical pot is used, skip the next step.
  
• Make sure the volume pot is good.  Using an ohmmeter. connect the leads to the volume pot, and turn the pot back in forth.  When the pot is turned completely one way, it should read close to zero ohms (full volume).  When turned the opposite direction, the reading should be close to the value of what the pot's rating (pots in pinball machines roughly range from 5 kohms to 25 kohms depending on the manufacturer). Pots sometime develop "dead spots".  When the pot is turned from its lowest setting (highest resistance value) to its highest setting (0 ohm resistance), the resistance value should slowly decrease.  While turning the pot, if the value spikes to 0 and resumes to a higher value than 0, the pot has a dead spot.  TV tuner cleaner can be used to sometimes rectify this problem.  Even exercising the pot back and forth can resolve dead spots in a pinch.
  
• Make sure the output connections on the sound board are good. If the sound board in question has header pins on the output to the speaker / volume pot, check for cracked header joints.  Short of a visual inspection with the board removed from the game, try wiggling the output connector.  This does not definitely prove that there are cracked header joints, but it shows that either the headers or the harness connector is at fault.  Additionally, check for bad connectors inside the speaker output housing connection.  If the sound board in question uses edge finger connections, check the edge connector inside the housing of the output to the speaker.  In either case, if the output harness uses an insulation displacement connector (IDC), check to make sure the wires are securely seated inside the connector of the housing.
  
• In some but not all instances, sound boards use a 5-legged amplifier with a heat sink attached.  Sound boards with this type of amp may have cracked solder joints at the legs of the amp.  If gently wiggling the amps heat sink makes sound cut in and out, suspect cracked solder joints on the legs of the amp.

Remaining issues are typically sound board specific.  Please review the appropriate repair pages regarding the sound board in question.



A priori je vais commencer par :
1- Tester les tensions à l'entrée de la carte CPU/sound
2- Essayer de refaire les pattes du mon eprom U7 et de la mettre en place (si je peux enlever la patte cassée qui est restée dans le support, j'ai essayé avec une pince à épiler mais elle est trop grosse...)
3. Si pas possible, il faudra dessouder le support et reprogrammer cette rom (peut être d'autres, j'avance à taton dans cette histoire  (:: )

[demether]

Bon courage ! Ce qui est le plus dur je trouve, c'est quand on a pas d'autre choix que d'avancer à taton ! Car sans organisation, on peut empirer au lieu d'améliorer (j'en sais qque chose...Mon excalibur n'a plus d'alim fonctionnelle, du fait de ce genre de travaux  )